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Old 10-27-2013, 12:32 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Default Setting up my UEG

In another thread about alignment problems I showed how I set up my base. I won't repeat that but just link to it if anyone is interested.

http://tracksawforum.com/showpost.ph...30&postcount=8

Setting up my UEG.

After assembling the EZ UEG frame and making sure the rails were perpendicular to the base rail, the tracksaw base was allowed to move a far amount in rotation, so you had to be very particular in setting up the two frame rail widths or the blade would not be parallel to be base rail. In my case I had over a 1/8” plate clearance. I’m showing what I did after the fact so there are no in-process images.

In order to bring the twin rails closer together in a parallel fashion I elongated the primary through-screw’s hole in the base plate by the 1/8” needed, and indicated by the red arrow in picture 1.

With all three screws in place but loose, and with the opposite rail still firmly screwed in the position that was 90 to the base rail, I installed the EZ baseplate close to the mounting end and brought the rails together with a bar clamp. (I actually did this before mounting the EZ plate to the saw’s plate).

The three screws were tightened down, the clamp removed and the EZ baseplate slid back and forth to check for rail parallelism. It was perfect without any rotational slop that would allow the saw blade to get out of parallel to the frame’s base rail or excessive tightness.

I want to have a measurement rule on both rails to set the saw for cutting rather then using a tape measure or story stick. To establish the base line or edge of the base rail I set two blocks of wood to establish that line across the top of the frame rails.

This is important because if you have the saw baseplate marked and you are going to change the saw’s direction (so sometimes the blade will be close to the baserail and other times away from the baserail) you need consistency between the two rail’s rules.
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Last edited by TooManyToys; 09-24-2018 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 10-27-2013, 12:37 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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With a steel rule placed arose the blocks I used a razor knife to cut a fine line in the aluminum indicating the zero point, or position of the base rail.

Once I cleaned the aluminum frame rail I was ready to install the rules. For the one rail I used McMaster 1910A27 right to left self-stick tape and for the opposite side 1910A47 left to right tape, both are ” in width and fit into the recess nicely. There is another tape that has the numeric values in a 90 rotation so you would only need one style, but I’m so used to using tape measures and rules with the alignment in the horizontal I’d rather just stick to it. They also have these rules in metric and I was very close to going down that path. For years I’ve stayed with imperial because that is how I conceptualize, but metric is really easier to use.
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Last edited by TooManyToys; 10-27-2013 at 12:47 AM.
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2013, 12:41 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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I took a factory cut board and measured it’s exact width then placed it between the base rail and saw blade, just as though I had cut the board to width (Image 1).

Knowing the board measured just shy of 9 9/32” wide I took a section from the excess of the 36” tape rule and fitted it to the edge of the EZ baseplate. I cut it wide enough to show whatever width blade I am using and made a P-Touch label so I would always know where the consistent edge of the blades (motor side) would be (Image 2).

As setup, it works well when cutting with the saw in my left hand (blade wide) and the width of the board cut would be 6” in this case (Image 3).

But if I need to cut narrow strips (blade close), then I need to flip the saw 180 and use the saw with my right hand (Image 4).

And in this situation I need to use the indicator and compensate for the blade’s width. If the blade were 1/8” wide then the cut would be 2 7/8” (Image 5).

If the blade is a thin kerf 1/16”, then the cut would be 2 15/16”. If I was trying for 2 7/8” with a thin blade then I would be doing the obvious (I hope) thing and moving the base closer to the 2” line by 1/16”, i.e. the middle line would be my cut line or indicator.
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Last edited by TooManyToys; 10-27-2013 at 02:58 PM.
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  #4  
Old 10-27-2013, 02:17 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Jack,

Very nice setup!!

Burt
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  #5  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:10 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Burt, thank you very much!

I've made a couple of test cuts on disposable HD ply from of their "green" rack (almost discarded wood) at different widths an it's spot on. Without the excessive clearance between the base to arms you could almost set the distance using only one rail measurement, but I will always do both as a double check and just to 'make sure' nothing has moved.

Now that I know the labels on the side of the EZ base are in line with the blade I'm going to put some clear poly over them to help prevent them from peeling off. But if they do I just need to recalibrate and label with another measured with board.
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Old 11-01-2013, 02:38 AM
Tmyoung Tmyoung is offline
 
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Default Tmt

Thanks for the post. I ordered the the same tape you did. Thing is, it doesn't fit into the little recess like yours. It's almost an 1/8" too wide. How old or new is your UEG? I wonder of they made a change to it. I have one of the first production runs. If in fact the recess is wider on the newer models. I'll just order a new one.
Thanks for the description on adj the rail width too. Mine were out quite a bit. It slides way better and also seems to stay square longer. Although I did use loctite on all the threads and connections. Let it sit for 24 hours and now it is rock solid now.
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2013, 11:32 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Tom,

My UEG is recent so a change is possible from this manufacturer, just blink an eye.

I measured mine before ordering the tape, but I've attached an image of it's width. If the tape is too wide you still could install it with the graduation's edge fitting the recess as it should, then use a sharp razor to trim the opposite end as it will follow the recess. Image to show what I'm saying.

I've now used the UEG to cut some T-111 and with the two rails fitting the base snug the set measurement sets up tight, i.e., set the base to the one side and it's damn close to the other. I think with the play between the rails and the base it's easy for the mass of the base/saw in a rotational movement to be more likely push those rails apart under the screws, whereas with a tight fit and parallel movement only the rails should stay in place to the base rail, IMO.

I'm glad to have put the blade width indicator on the base, but it does make me think about what I'm setting to each time. If someone can live with -1/32" cuts and are always using a thin kerf blade they could just put a single line that splits the blade position on the base and be done with it.

After trying the UEG setting it's width with a tape measure with the loose fitting rails only twice, and now using the fitted rails with the scales I would never want to go back. It just changes the ease this tool is capable of.
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Last edited by TooManyToys; 11-01-2013 at 11:44 AM.
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  #8  
Old 01-23-2014, 03:59 PM
should_have should_have is offline
 
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TooManyTools, thanks for the excellent post's & details. I need to recalibrate & modify my UEG.

Lucky you, I miss the GREEN Bin @ HD in Baltimore, MD. They told me it was corporate policy to stop the Cheap/Bin. I loved the bargains I would find in the green bin.
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