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  #11  
Old 03-12-2018, 08:43 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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tomp913, you explained it better than I could. But that's what I meant
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2018, 02:47 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
tomp913, you explained it better than I could. But that's what I meant
And the "issue" don't stop here.
Some factories recommend to "toe in" the blade in order to compensate
for the spinning forces.

here we have a simple base that fixes all the above issues and provides the cleanest cut possible with just about any saw or blade.
in top of it works with right and left saws.
Provides anti-chip and anti-tilt protection.
comes with a FIN that eliminates kick backs when used free handed...
Ready for the best ez tool ...
The simple UEG that makes ripping panels and wood
safe-accurate and clean..

Now we are splitting hairs and this is good.
Open forum to say what you think without any attacks by paid Trolls...
and provide universal ways and advice to all makes and users.

The best of all...read and see what some members here was able to do
with out the need for dangerous and outdated tools and ways..

I take all the above as a good functional forum and thanks to Phil we can
exchange ideas and make ez better and better every day.
We.


tx
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eurekazone.

Last edited by Dino; 03-12-2018 at 03:23 PM. Reason: tipo..what else? typo.
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  #13  
Old 03-15-2018, 03:45 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Dino,

Thank you for the feedback and open discussion.

Do you think one bolt on each end is adequate to keep the track in place on the bridge? As you know, these guide rails only have one t-slot on the bottom.

I found some cheap t-nuts on Amazon that seem like they will fit. Since my bridge doesn't have the adjustable slot like the newer ones, I will just drill a new hole in the bridge and stick a bolt through it.

Otherwise I might have to drill and counter-sink the Makita track if I need 2 bolts on each end.

Thanks again
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  #14  
Old 03-16-2018, 01:10 AM
Dino Dino is offline
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Posts: 5,151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
Dino,

Thank you for the feedback and open discussion.

Do you think one bolt on each end is adequate to keep the track in place on the bridge? As you know, these guide rails only have one t-slot on the bottom.

I found some cheap t-nuts on Amazon that seem like they will fit. Since my bridge doesn't have the adjustable slot like the newer ones, I will just drill a new hole in the bridge and stick a bolt through it.

Otherwise I might have to drill and counter-sink the Makita track if I need 2 bolts on each end.

Thanks again
Chris,
Use a thick plate of aluminum to spread the weight.
I see no problem either way.
Gravity works with you and after setting everything you can use
a small screw just in case.

good luck.
tx
d
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  #15  
Old 03-16-2018, 06:52 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
Chris,
Use a thick plate of aluminum to spread the weight.
I see no problem either way.
Gravity works with you and after setting everything you can use
a small screw just in case.

good luck.
tx
d
Dino,

the bolts supplied with the bridge almost fit the t-track. I just had to grind it down a bit. Already had nuts that work... Saved money for once!

At full bevel you only need to move the track over maybe 3/4 for very safe clearance. The track still sits on top of the bridge without much overhang bias. No need for extra metal plate so far

Anyway, this is what I have been working on:
Cannibalizing my ez-MFT.

I will put a solid 3/4 top between the b2b. It won't be as thick as the b2b, so I'll need to stack 1/2 ply at the mounting edges

I'll add casters to the end of the b2b that protrudes at the back of the table. I would have rathered a full 48" long table, with no protrusion, but my 55" track says no.

The purpose of even keeping the b2b is so I can clamp the cutoff piece and prevent it from falling to the floor, since the table is so narrow. On the "save-piece" side (under the track), I can fasten a sliding stop or miter guide that moves perpendicular to the track.

For a fence, I'll fasten something to the SME.

Lastly, I like folding legs, so I got rid of the aluminum ones.

Simple, but it's all I need for now.
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  #16  
Old 03-17-2018, 09:13 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Threw the top on today

Just need fence and stops. And figure out how I'm going to make extensions
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2018, 11:21 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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How thick is your top?

For a fence, put in a piece of t-track to the left of the track and attach the fence with t-bolts in that and the outer (left hand) extrusion. At that point, it's simple to drop the track down to the table and square the fence to the LH edge of the track - this is how I was planning to provide a fence on my PBB before I went with the MFT top. Now I can put dogs across the depth of the table and align the track (and bridge) to those dog hole and be automatically square to dogs running across the width.
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2018, 12:38 AM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
How thick is your top?

For a fence, put in a piece of t-track to the left of the track and attach the fence with t-bolts in that and the outer (left hand) extrusion. At that point, it's simple to drop the track down to the table and square the fence to the LH edge of the track - this is how I was planning to provide a fence on my PBB before I went with the MFT top. Now I can put dogs across the depth of the table and align the track (and bridge) to those dog hole and be automatically square to dogs running across the width.
I wanted dogholes like the MFT top for weight savings and convenience, but i don't trust myself to accurately make all the holes.

the top is 3/4, but i glued an extra piece of ply under the mounting edges to raise it another 3/4. It's effectively a little less than 1/2" higher than the b2b.

I was thinking of making a simple plywood "stop" that slides along my b2b in both X and Y axis. Seems ok in my head, but something aluminum would be nicer. A miter gauge even nicer.

My other idea was to buy one of those $18 digital miter gauges , drill holes through it so i can put connector extrusion, and attach a longer rigid aluminum fence to the swiveling end. Not sure how i'd lock the swiveling end in place at my desired angle, though.


As for the fence perpendicular to the track (connected to the SME), maybe just 1/2" melamine with slots and knobs?

I have so much extra 24" b2b
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2018, 10:42 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Any thing that works is good. If you want to spend a little money, look at the Incra SuperTrack and the other components they sell for making fixturing/tooling. https://www.incra.com/jig_fixture-bu...ml#prettyPhoto Make the fence shown, fix it to the table with t-bolts and their brackets, and you can incorporate a scale, sliding stop(s) and so on. I use the UEG to rip the plywood sheets down into strips and then the PBB is used strictly for cutting panels to length so I have the top wider than the depth (48" wide x 33" deep), figuring that I needed the width to cut "standard" base cabinet widths - the fence located to te right so I get the bulk of the panel on the top and use a support under the cutoff end if needed. I'm now working (as I get the time) on getting the SSRK set up to use with my table.
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2018, 12:47 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Thanks for the links. Some of that incra stuff is very nice.

I'm trying to figure out a squaring fence perpendicular to the cut line. But my problem is reconciling how the fence goes under the track.

I suppose I can use a 1/4 high fence since I don't foresee myself cutting 1/8" sheet goods very often. And if I do, I'll just have to stack a sacrificial board under it, so the track can rest on the wood, not the fence.
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