View Single Post
Old 05-22-2017, 05:25 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 250

Here is my answer to part of your question. First photo shows what I use instead of the repeater, basically a longer square with a sliding stop to replace the repeater which I was never comfortable with - too clunky for my taste. The cut line indicator uses a cursor that can be moved to line up with a test kerf, independent of the condition of the ACE, so can be adjusted for different kerf widths.

I like the idea of the "solid" ACE milled out of a piece of PVC as it lets you line up with pencils marks on either side of a part rather than having to juggle the cut line indicator back and forth. Dik said that he made his out of a piece of PVC trim that he bought at a lumberyard - it needs to be 1/2" thick and all I can find is 3/4" so I'd have to run it through the planer. I've made smaller parts where I needed to machine PVC, and it really makes a mess - can't imagine what it would look like taking 1/4" off a long strip. Ideally, you'd want to start with a piece wide enough to cut an ACE from either side so you can use the set-up to wind up with a spare. The last photo shows a small part that I made to fit in the side groove of the rail (an idea that didn't work out); I found a 7-14" saw blade who's kerf was just a little wider than the leg on the rail so two passes through the TS, and then two passes over the router table to reduce the thickness so it would fit inside the rail groove. The strip would be trimmed just like the standard ACE so it would cut to your line.

I was thinking about this last night, and came up with the idea of taking the two different strips off a Makita track - the cut line/splinter strip and the anti-slip strip - and gluing them on the bottom of the EZ track. You would need the 1/2" thick block on the bottom of the base (doesn't look as if there's enough meat on the EZ insert for it to be modified), but with the block having a small rabbet having a depth equal to the thickness of the strip to give pressure to the top of the strip. The downside of this idea - and I'm not really sure that it's a big deal - is that the saw would have to be moved closer to the ridge on the track so you don't have a wide overhang on the rubber strip. This would be a one-time modification to the base, and would give a good accurate edge to line up with a pencil mark, plus the strip is relatively cheap and not as easily damaged as the EZ ACE. I think that's an idea that could work, maybe I'll try to look at it a little closer, take some measurements and make a sketch.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4160.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	95.6 KB
ID:	7103   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2536.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	101.0 KB
ID:	7104   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2685.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	90.0 KB
ID:	7105   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2686.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	101.6 KB
ID:	7106   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3428.jpg
Views:	134
Size:	92.2 KB
ID:	7107  

Reply With Quote